Maytag Washer, SAV205DAWW, Tub Unbalanced During Spin Cycle

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gusimio	Maytag Washer, SAV205DAWW, Tub Unbalanced During Spin Cycle	Lead	[-]
Posts: 1 (04/14/08 18:40:25) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Tags : None Hello all, My 4 year old Maytag washer has become increasingly unbalanced (during the spin cycle) as time progresses. It is now at the point where we can barely get through a complete wash cycle without earplugs (to dissipate the banging). Just kidding about the earplugs; however, it must be repaired or I will have to get a new washer but I'm not really sure what is causing the problem. Here what I know and what I've checked so far: 1-The washer is perfectly balanced (checked with accurate levels). 2-We continue to load the washer in a balanced fashion (same as always). 3-I removed the front and all springs are attached securely. 4-The tub does not exhibit much play when idle (brake holds in place maybe?) 5-The single drive belt has about 1 1/2 inches of play (is this too much?). 6-I have read the instructions here and I am ready to attempt a belt replacement if that could be the problem but I don't know if that much play is normal or not: http://www.applianceaid.com/amana-wash.html#belt Note: the belt is not frayed or worn as far as I can tell So, could it be the belt or should I look elsewhere? And, if elsewhere, could an average Joe (like myself) handle the suggested alternative repair? Thanks so much in advance for all replies. Best regards, gus
appliguy		#1	[-]
Posts: 5640 (04/14/08 19:55:51) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hi, Maytag Washer, SAV205DAWW Not really a Maytag washer, but is an Amana washer with a Maytag name on it. has become increasingly unbalanced (during the spin cycle) as time progresses Make sure the water drains out ok, -usually- approx 90 seconds for a full tub. Slow draining can build a wall of water in the baskets causing out of balance problems. Make sure the snubber/friction ring has no oil/water/detergant on it. The friction/snubber pad is between the basket assy and the base. Make sure the base has no cracks in it. Make sure the friction/snubber pad is intact. The single drive belt has about 1 1/2 inches of play (is this too much?). Note: the belt is not frayed or worn as far as I can tell The wasehr has an spring loaded idler pulley to keep tention on the belt, it is self adjusting. As long no chunks are missing and the belt is not fraying, I'd leave it alone. could an average Joe (like myself) handle the suggested alternative repair? Depends really on what is found to be wrong and what is required to correct the problem. If needed: Ring, friction snubber pad jeff Appliance Repair Aid - your online applliance repair shop JRAppliance Last Edited By: appliguy 04/15/08 08:34:01. Edited 1 times.
gusimio		#2	[-]
Posts: 2 (04/15/08 06:30:02) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hello appliguy, After following your suggestions (thank you!), the washer appears to be operating in a more balanced mode but I think there is still an underlying problem so here's an updated summary of my progress: Snubber Inspection - Removed agitator, inspected snubber assembly, no buildup, cleaned with damp cloth Drain Test - Takes about 90 seconds (as you stated but see below for additional information) I had to pull out the drain hose to check the waterflow; however, when I reinserted the hose, this time, I did not jam it all the way down into the pipe; I only inserted it half-way down. After doing this, my wife noticed that she didn't hear any "water slushing" when she opened the top to remove the clothes. Now, she never mentioned this before, so I couldn't report it originally but that repositioning of the hose appears to allow the washer to fully drain now. Also, the washer is no longer unbalanced when tested with only water draining (eg, no clothes); however, under normal load conditions, the unbalancing still occurs but is much improved over my originally reported condition and rebalancing the load doesn't cure the problem. So, based on this updated information, is there anything else I can look at? Thank you so much for taking the time to reply and assist me thus far, Best regards, gus
gusimio	Time For A New Washer	#3	[-]
Posts: 3 (04/15/08 08:24:41) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hello all, Well, after further investigation, I am convinced that my problem is design related because there are too many people reporting the same problem all over the place. Apparently, this SAV205DAWW has a design flaw involving the center support and triple-lip seal bearing which causes the following symptoms when it is starting to go south: 1- Washer becomes more unbalanced over time 2- Water starts to leak on floor 3- Grease deposited on clothes during wash cycle So, after reading all these complaints, I guess that I'm lucky I got almost 4 years out of this piece of junk; therefore, I'm going to cut my potential losses in the bud and get a new basic Kenmore washer. Again, many thanks to appliguy for assisting me but I can now see that any attempted repair is beyond my capabilities and would not be cost effective. Best regards, gus
appliguy		#4	[-]
Posts: 5641 (04/15/08 08:33:19) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	the center support and triple-lip seal bearing which causes the following symptoms when it is starting to go south: 1- Washer becomes more unbalanced over time 2- Water starts to leak on floor 3- Grease deposited on clothes during wash cycle For sure the bottom two will occur when the tub seal and bearing has problems....first one may be water relaited, if water gets onto that friction/snubber pad we loose stability. I had to pull out the drain hose to check the waterflow; however, when I reinserted the hose, this time, I did not jam it all the way down into the pipe; I only inserted it half-way down. After doing this, my wife noticed that she didn't hear any "water slushing" when she opened the top to remove the clothes. That probably helped a lot! I'm going to cut my potential losses in the bud and get a new basic Kenmore washer Thankx for the update. jeff Appliance Repair Aid - your online applliance repair shop JRAppliance
gusimio		#5	[-]
Posts: 4 (04/15/08 09:03:15) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hello Jeff, Thanks for the followup post; however, now I am curious about your comment regarding the fricton/snubber pad and how water getting on it could affect the stability of the washer (resulting in my unbalancing condition I presume). Now, from a laymen's perspective, I'm not sure how to keep water off that assembly because it sits right under the agitator and "appears" to be unprotected from the water in the tub. Would you be so kind as to elaborate further because I may have missed something on my original inspection that I may want to revisit before I buy that new washer. Thanks again, gus
gusimio	These Pictures Might Help	#6	[-]
Posts: 5 (04/15/08 10:18:58) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hello (again) Jeff, Are these photos of any help in determining if I have a defective stubber? Thanks, gus
appliguy		#7	[-]
Posts: 5643 (04/15/08 12:52:44) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Are these photos of any help in determining if I have a defective stubber? Nope. Make sure the snubber/friction ring has no oil/water/detergant on it. The friction/snubber pad is between the basket assy and the base. Make sure the base has no cracks in it. Make sure the friction/snubber pad is intact. #10 jeff.
gusimio		#8	[-]
Posts: 6 (04/15/08 14:20:03) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Okey doke... Just did some research on how to replace that item and now I will order my new washer tomorrow. However, I really do appreciate all the help you gave me Jeff. Thanks a bunch! gus
appliguy		#9	[-]
Posts: 5645 (04/15/08 18:53:41) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I will order my new washer tomorrow Happy shopping time jeff Appliance Repair Aid - your online applliance repair shop JRAppliance
gusimio		#10	[-]
Posts: 7 (04/17/08 17:14:48) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hello Jeff, Well, after shopping for a new washer at Sears, and reading all the negative customer feedback on every single model, I've decided to ask one more question because I have been able to improve the stability of my current washer (even further) by tightening up the idler arm assembly spring which resulted in a drive belt with "less slack/more tension" and after doing so, my wife did 3 loads of wash without experiencing the unbalanced washer condition. However, and before I order a new drive belt and idler assembly spring, I do have one remaining question: When I removed the bolt holding the agitator to the transmission output stem, and then removed the agitator, I noticed there is a very light coating of grease on the stem. Also, there is no grease (or oil) at the base of the stem (where the stem meets the tub) so I'm almost inclined to think that it belongs there; however, that is only a very uneducated guess on my part, so could someone please confirm whether or not the stem should have a thin coating of grease on it? Now, if the answer is YES, should I take a chance and order a new drive belt and idler assembly spring before diving into a new washer? Note: There is no grease, oil, or leaking water anywhere else (internal or external) that I can see. Best regards, gus Last Edited By: gusimio 04/17/08 17:19:08. Edited 1 times.

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Maytag Washer, SAV205DAWW, Tub Unbalanced During Spin Cycle

Maytag Washer, SAV205DAWW, Tub Unbalanced During Spin Cycle

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