Wondering what else the problem could be. Our Kenmore washing machine quit spinning. Following the instructions from "Direct Drive Washer - won't
spin service aid," I've replaced the drive coupling and the clutch assembly. One 'ear' on the white plastic clutch piece that is supposed to
release the brake was snapped off, so I thought replacing that fixed it. After reassembly, did a test, and the machine is doing the same thing. The wash
cycle seems to work fine. At the start of the spin cycle, the machine struggles to get the drum spinning and sounds as if it's working against tremendous
friction. The drum never reaches any sustained speed. After about 45 seconds, the motor gets hot and the machine shuts off. It sounds like the brake is not
releasing, but I don't know what to do to fix that beyond replacing the clutch. Any help is most appreciated.
Thanks!
Kenmore 110.82873120 won't spin
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 Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
Kenmore 110.82873120 won't spin |
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Posts: 1 (11/04/09 17:41:22) |
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appliguy |
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Posts: 6800 (11/04/09 20:45:55) Administrator |
Hi,
Our Kenmore washing machine quit spinning Before the repair. The wash cycle seems to work fine. At the start of the spin cycle, the machine struggles to get the drum spinning and sounds as if it's working against tremendous friction. The drum never reaches any sustained speed. After about 45 seconds, the motor gets hot and the machine shuts off.Was the same thing happening before your repair? The filter under the wash basket is bad for breaking and drags the basket down from spinning. Drive block can ground out in the middle and the wash basket drops down and drags on the outer holding tank. Maybe remove the agitator and wash basket and recheck the spin. One 'ear' on the white plastic clutch piece that is supposed to release the brake was snapped off, so I thought replacing that fixed it.That does sound like it was bad. You probably did the correct thing in replacing the clutch. |
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 2 (11/11/09 14:26:30) |
Thanks for the reply. I tried to remove the lock ring so I could take the inner basket out to check the lint filter and drive block, but have been able to
budge the lock ring using a punch and hammer. So, I've now acquired the special tool to do this. But before proceeding, I need to confirm if the lock
ring is standard or reverse thread before I go and try to take it off with the tool.
Thanks again. |
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appliguy |
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Posts: 6809 (11/11/09 17:40:16) Administrator |
I need to confirm if the lock ring is standard or reverse thread before I go and try to take it off with the toolStandard. 
Nut, right-hand thread, holds inner tub in place 
Drive block for inner tub jeff. |
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 3 (11/11/09 17:50:32) |
Lock nut is off; it was indeed standard thread. Anything else I need to remove before lifing the inner drum out?? It's not coming out willingly.
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appliguy |
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Posts: 6811 (11/11/09 19:37:32) Administrator |
A copy:
To remove the inner basket, remove the agitator, remove the tank cover, remove the nut and lift up of the inner basket. Once the tub nut is off, sometimes the tub gets frozen to the center hub. If the tub will not lift out, sometimes putting one foot inside of the tub and stomping down will break it free. Two people, one on each side can also lift up and push down at the same time, may also break the inner basket free. jeff. |
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 4 (11/11/09 21:22:30) |
Alrighty, finally got the inner basket out, and the lint filter is packed and probably the culprit. I also noted lots of hardwater deposits (lots of calcium in
the good 'ol Florida water) caked on the lint filter, under the lint filter, and on the outer tub underneath the filter. I'm betting this was causing
most of the friction and slowing the spin cycle down. The drive block is also heavily corroded, so I'm going to replace the drive block and remove the lint
filter and replace it with the filter plugs, and hopefully that will take care of it. I did perform a test today, and was able to confirm that the brake is
engaging and disengaging as it should, so I think the clutch assembly replacement took care of that part.
One final (hopefully??) question: are there any o-rings, gaskets, or other bits I should replace while I've got the machine disassembled?? Jeff, thanks for checking in on my thread and posting your suggestions. You've been a great help. I'll post an update to let everyone know how the parts replacement goes and if that takes care of the rest of the repair.
Last Edited By: Tedrick
11/11/09 21:43:09.
Edited 2 times.
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appliguy |
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Posts: 6813 (11/12/09 05:17:33) Administrator |
I also noted lots of hardwater deposits (lots of calcium in the good 'ol Florida water) caked on the lint filter, under the lint filter, and on the outer tub underneath the filterNewer style replacement filter is different. 
Filter plug kit for inner tub, replaces round filter assembly are there any o-rings, gaskets, or other bits I should replace while I've got the machine disassembled??Nope. |
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 5 (11/17/09 20:16:53) |
This machine will not go quietly into the night. I've now completely cleaned the tubs and agitator of all hardwater deposits, installed the plug kit,
installed a new drive block and lock ring, and put everything back together. The machine does spin better, but it's still not right. During the spin cycle,
there is a very audible repeating clicking sound, CLICK-click, that sounds very much like a relay opening and closing. When this clicking occurs, the motor
stops pulling the drum for a fraction of a second. This sounds like something in the motor control system.
In the meantime, another problem has cropped up. The pump has stopped working. I'm going to bail water out of th tub tomorrow and take the pump off to see if it's plugged up. Any other ideas besides replacement? Could this be an electrical problem, too? Thanks |
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appliguy |
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Posts: 6829 (11/17/09 20:41:56) Administrator |
In the meantime, another problem has cropped up. The pump has stopped working. I'm going to bail water out of th tub tomorrow and take the pump off to see if it's plugged up.If a washer cannot drain, it won't spin properly.....check the not draining first. jeff. |
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 6 (11/18/09 16:32:49) |
Jeff,
I really appreciate your help with this. You've been more than patient and offered solid advice. I took the pump off. It seems to be okay. There wasn't much dirt inside, and no socks or other bits of clothing, but there was a BB that may have blocked the impeller from turning (unless the pump has ball bearings, in which case I need a new pump). Following the instructions on www.applianceaid.com, I went ahead and ohmed out the motor. The start windings were a little high at 8.1 ohms, but not bad. The hi and low speed were in spec, and the motor safety protector was 0.1 ohms. Hopefully, this rules out the motor as a possible culprit. The motor centrifugal switch also checked out. Couple of questions: 1) How free should the impeller turn? I'm able to turn it by pushing the impellers with a screwdriver, but I can feel some resistance. Not bad, but it's there. 2) Does the pump have ball bearings? 3) Yesterday I ran a full wash cycle test. The washer filled and agitated just fine and tried to spin, and the timer seemed to do its thing. However, there were long quiet periods prior to each spin cycle when the washer was either in a resting stage, or when the pump should have been running. Problem is, neither the pump nor the motor made a sound...the machine was silent but for the ticking of the timer. If the pump impeller was blocked by the BB, would the motor still try to come on? Is there some switch or controller that tells the machine when to engage the pump side of the motor that could be bad?? Could the timer be bad? Could this be a bad motor capacitor (though from what I've read, if the capacitor was bad, the machine wouldn't agitate or spin)? Thanks again for you assistance.
Last Edited By: Tedrick
11/18/09 18:36:34.
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appliguy |
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Posts: 6833 (11/18/09 19:54:09) Administrator |
How free should the impeller turn? I'm able to turn it by pushing the impellers with a screwdriver, but I can feel some resistance. Not bad, but it's thereVery mild resistance....should turn fairly easily. Does the pump have ball bearings?Nope. If the pump impeller was blocked by the BB, would the motor still try to come on?It should yes....might just hummmmmmm at least. Is there some switch or controller that tells the machine when to engage the pump side of the motor that could be bad?? Could the timer be bad?Timer should control all... http://www.applianceaid.com/direct.html#burnt_timer Could this be a bad motor capacitor (though from what I've read, if the capacitor was bad, the machine wouldn't agitate or spin)?Motor normally shouldn't run at all with a bad capacitor... Capacitor testing... http://www.applianceaid.com/micro4.html I went ahead and ohmed out the motor. The start windings were a little high at 8.1 ohms, but not bad. The hi and low speed were in spec, and the motor safety protector was 0.1 ohms. Hopefully, this rules out the motor as a possible culprit. The motor centrifugal switch also checked outMotor can still draw too much current and shut off on it's built in safety/thermal switch, can mechanically fail....but your readings are a good sign the motor is ok. jeff. |
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 7 (11/19/09 08:11:36) |
I checked the timer late last night. All of the contacts looked perfect.
Since everything else checks out, it appears that the BB was blocking the impeller and the motor was shutting off due to overcurrent. So, I'm going to reassemble this evening and run the washer through a spin cycle to see of the pump will come on. Sound like a reasonable approach? Thanks.
Last Edited By: Tedrick
11/19/09 08:36:02.
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appliguy |
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Posts: 6836 (11/19/09 13:13:07) Administrator |
Sound like a reasonable approach? Absolutely |
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 8 (11/19/09 19:12:31) |
I put the pump back on, ran a dry test (no water), and I can see the pump shaft on the motor turning during the spin cycle. So apparently it was the BB locking
the impeller in place. However, I'm now back to the drum brake. While running the test, there should have been very little drag on the inner drum during
the spin cycle, as there was no water or clothing in the machine. Yet the machine is still struggling to get the basket up to speed, and the motor is cycling
off and on and making the CLICK-click, CLICK-click sound, presumably as the motor alternately overloads while fighting the friction and then restarts. So,
I'm left with the conclusion that the break is not releasing even though the clutch assembly has been replaced. What do I need to replace to fix the brake?
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appliguy |
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Posts: 6838 (11/19/09 19:52:45) Administrator |
Yet the machine is still struggling to get the basket up to speed, and the motor is cycling off and on and making the CLICK-click, CLICK-click sound, presumably as the motor alternately overloads while fighting the friction and then restartsTried different speeds? Will the motor and pump run ok dropped away from the drive train? 
You may have to get the gear-case out. Then take a look at that tan colored part in the middle of this picture. If the 2 drive "fingers" are broken off, the clutch can't dis-engage the brake and this means no spin. jeff. |
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 9 (11/19/09 21:41:04) |
Tried different speeds? Not sure how to try different speeds. Will the motor and pump run ok dropped away from the drive train? I started to disassemble to test this, and thought I'd try the motor/drivetrain without the pump installed first. Without the pump connected to the drive shaft, the drum came right up to speed and no more cycling of the motor. Guess I need a new pump.
Last Edited By: Tedrick
11/19/09 21:43:18.
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appliguy |
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Posts: 6840 (11/20/09 05:45:21) Administrator |
Not sure how to try different speedsUnless yours is a one speed machine, cycles like delicate or PP are a slower/different speed than whites or regular cycle is. Without the pump connected to the drive shaft, the drum came right up to speed and no more cycling of the motor. Guess I need a new pumpCertainly sounds like it....that BB must have bent/damaged something inside the pump 
jeff. |
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 10 (11/20/09 06:43:44) |
appliguy wrote:Ah, okay  . My brain wasn't connecting on that one. I'll give
that a try this evening.
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 11 (11/20/09 11:56:58) |
I was able to buy a pump locally at lunch. I'm not convinced now that that's where the problem lies. Turning the impeller with my finger, the
resistance to rotation feels about the same between old and new pump, so I think I'm going to disassemble the drive train tonight and take out the brake
and spin tube assembly. I also plan to inspect the clutch assembly to make sure it's installed properly, and the hub to make sure ti is installed correctly
(I don't think it can be installed but one way, but I'll check). What could go wrong in the brake and spin tube assembly that I should look for?
Assuming the clutch kit was installed correctly, what else could prevent the brake from releasing completely?
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Tedrick.nosediversstunt... |
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Posts: 12 (11/20/09 17:17:11) |
Update: I tore down the drivetrain, checked the clutch installation, and pulled the brake/basket spin tube. I also cracked open the transmission for a quick
peak to check fluid level and look for any wear.
But before I took the motor and tranny off, I did a test of the spin cycle again. The first time, it did the same thing as before witht he pump installed. The second time, the drum came up to speed no problem. I took the agitator off and ran another test. This time, I could see the agitator shaft spin and see the drum slipping until it came up to the same speed as the agitator shaft. Could this mean that the lock ring was not on tight enough? Next, I took the lockring off and did yet another text and got the same thing. Again I'm thinking the lock ring was not tight enough. Here's what I found about the drivetrain and brake: - The transmission looked good. No signs of wear. The oil was heavy and black, about like 90 wt gear oil. There was maybe 1/2 to 3/4-inch of oil in the bottom of the tranny. Should there be more? What oil should be used if it needs any? - The clutch looked okay. However the metal tab on the thrust bearing is almost worn off. Could this be the root of the slipping and failuer to come up to speed when the drum is loaded? - I could find no signs of wear on the brake assembly. A small amount of gear oil, again about 90 wt, ran out of the tube when I removed the basket spin tube. I remember reading this should be coated with a special grease. Does this sound normal? - I did not try the pump and motor only. I'll do that later tonight and see what happens. |
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