Damper Pads on Maytag top loading clothes washer in Appliances (now closed) Forum

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Damper Pads on Maytag top loading clothes washer

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Nestor Kelebay	Damper Pads on Maytag top loading clothes washer	Lead	[-]
Posts: 8 Oct 11 11 10:43 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Tags : None Hi. My sister has an older Maytag top loading clothes washer with the older metal transmission. I was at her house yesterday and I noticed that it was making a loud tapping noise during it's spin cycles. I took the front cover off the machine and noticed that two of the damper pads had come out and were laying on the bottom of the machine. She still had some clothes in the washer and I was surprised at how much the tub moved back and forth during the spin cycle. I have several questions: It's hard to tell where a noise is coming from, but would the lack of damper pads combined with a lot of movement of the outer tub during the spin cycle make a knocking noise at the damper assembly? My understanding is that I need to lift the top cover on the machine, disconnect the suspension springs from the machine and set the bottom pulley on a block of wood to raise the machine innards sufficiently to access the damper pads. But, those instructions tell me I need to put the "tub block" in to hold the wash tub centered. I don't have a tub block. Can I do this work without using a tub block? Can I scrape off the remaining old damper pad with a paint scraper and remove any residual glue with paint thinner (or mineral spirits)? My Maytag service manual says that I should use Maytag rubber adhesive (Maytag Part # 55978) to glue the new pads on. I'm hoping there's an alternative because I don't want to buy this adhesive only to use a small amount and have the rest go to waste. What do service techs use to glue the new damper pads on? Finally, considering that her tub was moving quite a bit, I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to replace the three suspension springs too. Would this reduce the amount of movement in the tub during the spin cycle? Thanks for any help. Last Edited By: Nestor Kelebay Oct 11 11 11:12 AM. Edited 1 time.
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appliguy		#1	[-]
Posts: 8106 Oct 11 11 5:12 PM Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Hi Nestor, It's hard to tell where a noise is coming from, but would the lack of damper pads combined with a lot of movement of the outer tub during the spin cycle make a knocking noise at the damper assembly? Normally more of a scraping noise, but the assembly not moving smothly on the pads could certain cause noises or even somethings to vibrate loose....check all tubs bolts and suspection bolts. My understanding is that I need to lift the top cover on the machine, disconnect the suspension springs from the machine and set the bottom pulley on a block of wood to raise the machine innards sufficiently to access the damper pads. Correct. http://www.applianceaid.com/may-damper.html But, those instructions tell me I need to put the "tub block" in to hold the wash tub centered. I don't have a tub block. Can I do this work without using a tub block? Even with the install instructions telling us to keep the tub block that came with the washer when new, most of us didn't Yes it can be done but the tub may tilt/lisp somewhat on us during the job. Can I scrape off the remaining old damper pad with a paint scraper and remove any residual glue with paint thinner (or mineral spirits)? Yes and yes. When we rebuilt them for our laundrymat we remove the whole assembly and use a grinder with a brush wheel to clean up that area. Not overly important to get 100% of the old glue off....just most of it and any lumps. My Maytag service manual says that I should use Maytag rubber adhesive (Maytag Part # 55978) to glue the new pads on. I'm hoping there's an alternative because I don't want to buy this adhesive only to use a small amount and have the rest go to waste. What do service techs use to glue the new damper pads on? Contact cement. Finally, considering that her tub was moving quite a bit, I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to replace the three suspension springs too Never had to yet. I wouldn't. They can be tightened ( never loosened! ) with the eye bolts. jeff Appliance Repair Aid - your online appliance repair shop JRAppliance
Nestor Kelebay		#2	[-]
Posts: 8 Oct 11 11 7:30 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Thanks, Jeff. The only qualm I'm having is with using contact cement to glue the pads down. I'm concerned that the contact cement won't allow any readjustment of the pad position, and I'm concerned that I may not get them in the correct position first time round. One of the guy's I've known at my local Reliable Parts for years says that they sell a 3M product called 847 (for $18 for a 5 fl. oz. tube) that appliance repair techs use to glue these pads on, and another guy at Able Appliance here in Winnipeg suggested that same product, but also suggested that I glue the pads on and let the glue cure overnight before putting the machine back together. Do you know if I'd get the same bond strength if I set the pads into the un-dried contact cement and then gave it plenty of time to dry? That is, instead of waiting until both glued surfaces are dry and applying them together to get an instant grab, sticking the pad into the wet contact cement and letting it dry that way? Thanks for your help. - Nestor
appliguy		#3	[-]
Posts: 8106 Oct 12 11 3:45 AM Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	The top surface of the pads should be located 3/32" below center opening in the base. The distance between the pads should be about 5/8". I have never had to adjust them....just down from the top of the hole approx 1/2" apart and we are good to go. One of the guy's I've known at my local Reliable Parts for years says that they sell a 3M product called 847 (for $18 for a 5 fl. oz. tube) Too expensive for me! Works well, but not better for that money. but also suggested that I glue the pads on and let the glue cure overnight before putting the machine back together. Do you know if I'd get the same bond strength if I set the pads into the un-dried contact cement and then gave it plenty of time to dry? We always allow overnight drying before use. That is, instead of waiting until both glued surfaces are dry and applying them together to get an instant grab, sticking the pad into the wet contact cement and letting it dry that way? Sure you can. Just dries tacky when bonded toegther but still needs over night to completely cure. jeff.
Nestor Kelebay		#4	[-]
Posts: 8 Oct 15 11 6:19 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Jeff: I talked to Adhere Distributors here in Winnipeg, and they're the distributors for 3M, Henkel and Loktite products here in Winnipeg. The guy there said that I can't use the contact cement the way I was hoping, so I'm willing to pay the extra money for the glue if it allows me sufficient time to re-adjust the damper pads. I'm concerned that when I get this washer balancing on a block of wood, I'll have good access to the pads at the front, but not the back. It's going to cross my mind to take the back panel off the washer. But, I'd be concerned that if the front panel is off, the top panel is unscrewed at the front, and then I go and take the back panel off, are the side panels gonna fall away? Also, I have a block of wood that's 4 inches thick, whereas the instructions say to use a piece of 4X4, which is 3 5/8 or thereabouts. That won't cause a problem will it?
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appliguy		#5	[-]
Posts: 8106 Oct 16 11 4:55 AM Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Gaining access to the back side is definetly more difficult, but doable. It's going to cross my mind to take the back panel off the washer. Not much of a back panal to remove. But, I'd be concerned that if the front panel is off, the top panel is unscrewed at the front, and then I go and take the back panel off, are the side panels gonna fall away? Cabinet sides are screwed to the base. whereas the instructions say to use a piece of 4X4, which is 3 5/8 or thereabouts. That won't cause a problem will it? Nope. jeff Appliance Repair Aid - your online appliance repair shop JRAppliance
Nestor Kelebay		#6	[-]
Posts: 8 Oct 16 11 12:02 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Well, if getting the back panel off is just a matter of removing some screws, I'll do that to get better access to the back pads. But, I'm concerned that the water mixing valve is gonna be screwed to that panel and I'll have to disconnect the hoses and stuff going to it. I guesss I'll just play it by ear, and make the decision on whether or not to remove the back panel depending on how much of a fight it is to do this job entirely from the front.
appliguy		#7	[-]
Posts: 8106 Oct 16 11 6:28 PM Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	There is no back panal! jeff.
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